Catching Up With August 2011

Martin Luther King Jr.remembered in Atlanta today

by Jo Damer Merrin Beattie on Thursday, August 4, 2011 at 10:38pm

Today we had an extraordinary day in Atlanta. I am reading a book by Taylor Branch, Pullitzer prize winner of 'Parting The Waters: America in the King Years 1954-63 ", a narrative history about the United States during the civil rights era which especially tells the story of Martin Luther King Jr. in the time preceding his emergence as a national figure. It explains the social landscape leading up to the civil rights movement of the 60's. We visited the Ebenezer Baptist Church on Auburn Avenue where Rev. King Sr. and Jr. were pastors.

 The younger King was buried there, as is his wife, Coretta, and there is a marvellous water area surrounding their grave next to the church. It was quite something to sit quietly in the church opposite the pulpit imagining the the trials and tribulations of those times.

Martyn Luther King' Jr.'s First Pulpit at the Ebenezer Baptist Church in Atlanta

Beni is returning a week Sunday to attend the Young Adults service. We leave tomorrow for Mobile, Alabama, to meet more new relatives. It has been a delight to meet Reade our cousin in Marietta just outside Atlanta. Best ever chicken sandwiches Reade!


Beni with the lovely sisters and our NEW COUSINS Mervin and Reade White-Spunner



Superb Saturday and Sunday at Church and Black Clubs!

 by Jo Damer Merrin Beattie on Tuesday, August 9, 2011 at 11:58am

After a leisurely Saturday morning we went with Mervin, our cuz, to visit Spring Hill College nearby her home. It is the oldest Jesuit College in the South and cousin Jamie Friendlander starts there in a week. Mervin organises the Book Nook  there on a Saturday for used books so of course we popped in. I found and bought a 1901 novel on Robin Hood!

What followed was an emotional lunch 'An The Hill" with my new cousins in what was the family home of my Great Uncle Charles. Charles had left Paris for America as a student when a young man in 1880 and his final destination was Mobile, Alabama! I knew nothing about this connection until last summer but that..is a story by itself at a later time. The house is in Spring Hill, a glorious historical area in Mobile. I was able to visit the nearby, absolutely beautiful cemetary with huge southern oaks where my relatives are buried. One relative was names Richard Merrin which is my father and brother's name..apparently there was some connection to my Great Grandma Sophia's husband named thus. Sophia was Charles' sister. We had a most excellent lunch with relatives and close friends. Iced tea and wine was de rigeur of the day!Folloowed by some snazzy banjo and guitar jamming with Nathan, Greg and Beni.Of course we sang Sweet Home Alabama!

Great Uncle Charles White-Spunner



Beni and his new male and female cousins having lunch in the Library



The Catholics in the family then went to mass at St Ignatius Church in Spring Hill where Mervin is a cantor. Beni had a great gig at Serda's in Mobile Saturday night! It was one of those very special events..all the new family came out with a few White-Spunner friends and Beni managed his 3 long sets solo.

 Sunday was another extraordinary day..it started with Mervin [after I had requested such a visit in search of an authentic southern gospel choir] taking us to the Hebron Church in Pritchard. It was an amazing two and a half hour service full of goodness and certainly unique for us Catholics sharing the Lord in this particualr way. We witnessed full immersion baptisms, a sensational gospel chor clad in white with full back up band, totally sincere preaching by Pastor Joe Johnson and his wife Pastor Linda Johnson and several other helpers. Whatever you imagined in a southern gosepl church was seen. We were asked to stand up [a congregation of about 1000] to introduce ourselves and were received with lots of love 'n affection! A marvellous solost called Richard Ross who drives more than an hour to get to church from Pensacola in Florida. Lots of hand clapping and movin'. The afternoon saw lunch at the Friedlanders, a wonderful family of 6...river boating on Dog River leading out into Mobile Bay. The Friedlanders lost their home in Katrina but built afresh and WAYS up high away from the water.

 Beni went tubing but not me, too afraid of gators and manatees and sharks!

After a most delightful afternoon we left to go into Mobile to Wintzel's where we tasted our first alligator, cheese grits and shrimp gumbo! The night rounded up with an exciting visit to a private black club which was hosting part of a jazz festival jam session. Brave Beni had taken his guitar but sadly we arrived [frisked at the entrance] for the last 2 tunes..amazing sax, trumpets, drums, singing..the live music gave way to a DJ when smartly dressed men in savvy suits, cool hats and spats shoes and women in glamourous dresses and high heels took to the floor. Greg in beach shorts decided he was decidely too informal and refused to dance with me to authentic funk!! What an experience it was and especially for Beni, totally the only young white male there. Again, can't say enough about these friendly Alabamans, everyone has treated us with the typical gracious southern hosptality!

Elegant Fairhope and Chef Nathan

by Jo Damer Merrin Beattie on Wednesday, August 10, 2011 at 10:47am

On Monday we visited the equivalent of Jasper Park Lodge called The Grand Hotel in an impeccably groomed tourist town called Fairhope outside Mobile on the coast. The flower budget in this town surely equals our snow budget in PG. The hotel had a shooting of the cannon event in the afternoon as a tribute to American soldiers. A young man explained briefly the naval history of the area during the Civil War. We found out that the expression "Damn the torpedoes full speed ahead" came from elicited by the Yankees as they took on all around Mobile Bay.

We had been invited for drinks to our cousins Lucky and Jane White-Spunner. Their home aptly named Bantry House [ family history] was reminiscent of an Irish country house straight out of a top home magazine.  [Actually it was in Southern Living!]


Lucky White-Spunner, Greg and Beni



The Friedlander family with Jo along with Doug and Mary -  Faith, all cousins

 Jane is superbly talented as a homemaker, what can I say..Greg will be busy under my orders with changes to our own house in September!I tasted the very best ever peach daiquiri. Lucky is a good friend of Winston Groom who wrote Forrest Gump. After all the southern experiences we will look forward to watching it again with new ears and eyes when we get home.

Culinary delights were to come as we headed back to the Friedlanders on Rabbit Creek where the esteemed Chef Nathan Friedlander, creator of the best lobster, freshly caught by Nathan from the sea the day before, best ever Eggs Benedict hollandaise sauce for Sunday lunch btw, who I think is a dark haired older version of Matthew McConachy cum Harrison Ford whilst on his boat and as a spearhunter,
taught me how to make the best etouffe in his delightful kitchen. Nathan should be on a cooking show. We had an entertaining meal with 10 of us then headed back to Spring Hill. Mervin's 2 dogs, Bear and Chloe awaited us anxiously. Mervin and I sat up discussing fam history till late...

The Heat of the Night in New Orlins!

by Jo Damer Merrin Beattie on Friday, August 12, 2011 at 8:12am

Arriving in New Orleans we settled into the hotel then began our adventures outside. fascinating shops down Chartres and Royal streets ending with a beignet and cafe au lait at the famous Cafe du Monde before heading up to see the sternwheeler across the Mississipi. Well last night was a fascinating allnighter [till 1am] along Frenchman Street here in the French Quarter. We began by having a cool Corona in a bar where a 5 piece bluegrass band, true mountain style, were playing and where we made up the crowd of 10. Along then to the Praline Connection to taste fried chicken, collards, fried chicken livers, potato salad, corn bread which our tummies could not finish due to the super large helpings! After a long delicious meal there we sauntered in in search of buddy musician John Boutte who we hoped to find at the DBA, a venue he regularly plays at. Well he's playing Saturday night so we went across the road to The Spotted Cat for some real cool jazz. beni could enter with us as his parents SO Cousin Mervin bought him his first legal drink! She also then got him his first mojito. I spent a length of time talking to the female jazz singer and asked her lots of questionsre how it as to perform in the Big Easy. She related as I thought...there is the tip jar, 99% of places do not pay their musicians a guarantee, no cover so basically the Tip Jar is IT. Bars mostly never adher to ASCAP either. I discovered along the bars on my little mission to investigate this that all the musicians I spoke with felt the same. This beautiful city relies on tourism and the venues should find a way to pay their musicians. We went to the Blue Nile where a tight Soul Project was playing. Then back out into the heat of the night, the smells, the ambience..we love this city!! Little did we know what was going to happen to Beni...at a small jazz/blues club we dont even know the name of they had a jam going on with very seasoned session players including guitar player for Sarah Mclaughlin and Bonnie Raitt. The lead singer asked us where we were from and Cousin Mervin said Greg and Beni were players..so...they asked Beni if he would like to play bass with them. So of course up he got to make his New Orleans debut :) After a very satisfying [now we were tired!] night we got back into our hotel by 1:30am after encountering a few interesting characters along the way including 2 police with their horses tied up on a fence.

The Livin' 'Aint easy in the Big Easy at least for Musicians

by Jo Damer Merrin Beattie on Monday, August 15, 2011 at 7:37am

We headed for The Howlin' Wolf club in lower South Peter Street in New orelans for the musician's clinic benefit...not knowing the layout we arrived early at 6:50pm for the doors opening. Well there was a problem..we had prepaid tickets but found out we needed official picture ID and especially for beni so beni and greg headed back 10 blocks to the hotel while Mervin and I waited..and waited..and waited. The guys got back quickly and in the meantime I acquired all the lowdown on the benefit, who was who etc etc. all in keeping with me in promoter mode.

DJ Shatt was playing very cool, appropriate house music but we had to wait [no chairs either] until 9:50 for the live music!!! We sur ehoped it would be worthwhile and that Cyril Neville was not going to wait till 2am to come on. Sadly for the organiser, Gaylene neville, with whom I chatted a while, the 1000 hoped for did not come. The New Orleans Saints were playing that night too whcih might have made a difference. In the end at the height of the attendance about 100 came but most of the night saw between 30-70 paying guests. This was sad on a number of levels. However...once the music started IT WAS TOTALLY GREAT AND ALL WAS FORGIVEN! The Stooges Brass Band were remarkable and I would have signed them on the spot for Coldsnap. However what followed were the dubiously named Brassaholics and they were sensational, each band had a minimum of 9 members. We had snagged 3 of the 12 chairs in the venue but it was hard to stay seated. A few other bands played including a Voodoo couple that were just plain scary but they only played a few songs. Then...it was time for the Neville Family to take the stage. Cyril, always the bound to impress performer was joined by Gaylene and several other players including the highly acclaimed Charlie Moore on bass. Cyril's guitar player, Eric Johannson [spelling?] was impressive beyong belief, a young guitarist and he was my most favourite..will definitely look into getting him to PG at some point. Then after astounding music to a smakk but appreciative crowd [remember that for these musicians it would normally be in the multi hundreds] the younger neville, I belive the son of Aaron, in all his Rasta glory took to the stage with the relatives..High energy abounding with charisma, an artist to look into for a bright future..will check on his name. We left at 1am to walk back past line ups for clubs wondering why more did not attend. The benefit was to raise money for a clinic aiding Louisiana musicians...we sure heard some horror stories re lack of health care. We are very glad to live in Canada and despite the driving distances most Canadian musicians have to do...they are at least covered.

Moon Over Memphis

by Jo Damer Merrin Beattie on Tuesday, August 16, 2011 at 10:37pm

Saturday, August 13th..We left our wonderful Cousin Mervin after a last bit of galivanting down Chartres Street and we all took Beni down Bourbon Street, a happening place at 10:30am! It happened to be Red Dress Day where 9000 people register, raise monies for charities and then..men and women get to wear whatever red dress they want...certainly added to the flavour of the Saturday morning outing. After packing up, having a last sweet tea with Mervin we said our fond goodbyes and left for Memphis. Mervin it has been such a memorable time with you!!

Today is a momentous birthday..seems like we are always away at this time...and there we were travelling up the Interstate 55 via Jackson [The Help was filmed mostly here] then into Memphis with all of us singing our beloved for many years song by Marc Cohn "Walking in Memphis" alternating with Paul Simon's "Graceland".

We settled into the hotel then more or less went straight to sleep. Big day Sunday ahead. After breakfast we headed for Graceland...we decided that due to it being Elvis Week in Memphis the line ups would be great and yes they were. So we drove around by Graceland, parked in the Heartbreak Hotel. Beni and I headed into the lobby and the atmosphere was infectious with the many women wearing Elvis shirts of all descriptions, the excitement was palpable! We came across this old man who told us he had brought his wife to Graceland twice a year for 25 years. We asked him where the mansion was and he took us across the big main road to the gates of Graceland!We had also decided that we did not have the time to do the full tour even if the line ups were short so we reverently walked along the wall outside. The wall is covered in names. An Elvis impersonator happened to be writing his name so I asked if I could borrow it and proceeded to write our names as best as I could including my PG buddy and long time Elvis fan, Linda Naess' name!Do you like my profile picture next to the wall?? We have to come back one day!

Rest of Memphis tomorrow..check out the pics Beni posted as a tag on his Facebook page.

The Witness,Sun Studio and Beale Street

by Jo Damer Merrin Beattie on Thursday, August 18, 2011 at 10:12am

After Graceland we headed for the Civil Rights Museum at the Lorraine Motel..the motel was bought by the black community in Memphis after mega fundraising. It was quite something to stand at the foot of the balcony where MLK was shot. Well, inside we had an extraordinary experience, a chance meeting...the Museum is historic and a fine job is done of telling about the background of Civil Rights as pertaining to MLK and so many others. It happened that on thebalcony where he was shot stood 2 other preachers, one being Rev. Samuel "Billy" Kyles...the 3 men were spending the hour before 6pm in the motel room hanging out doing "preacher talk" waiting to go to Samuel's house for supper. people were gathered outside and when they were ready to go they stepped outside and MLK was shot. Rev. Samuel has just made a documentary called The Witness and was at the museum speaking to people. So...we were there...Beni had an initial short conversation then after the documentary Beni and I found ourselves caught up with a big crowd of Baptist Conference people from all around the world. greg left to go in the foyer at some point and found himself next to Samuel so a conversation started. We came out, it was closing time then, I had to visit "the restroom" and left Beni..well he too encountered Samuel and had a funny chat with him about Elvis as it was Elvis Week.

After this we headed to Beale Street..well what fun!! Blues and R and B from every angle! There seemed to be a lot of poverty in Memphis but loads of who seemed to be locals just hanging out at the WC Handy Park shooting the breeze, dancing to the band in the sun. In an impromptu moment i decided to have a tattoo!! Well...an airbrush tattoo BUT a tattoo none the less so a rose ensued! It will last for the week, just enough to shock a few people in Victoria! The atmosphere was of the people, no pretence in memphis...

We then headed up to what was a marvellous visit to Sun Studios, the studio where Elvis first recorded, where Johnny Cash, Roy Orbison and so many others began. Check out Benis's tagged photos! An excellent few poignant moments fsure!

Southern Fried Chicken

by Jo Damer Merrin Beattie on Friday, August 26, 2011 at 11:30am

Southern Fried Chicken Experiment

In withdrawal from our time down south we invited a number of Greg's family over for Southern Fried Chicken cooked by me for the first time. 2 nights ago I had taken Greg's Mom and niece to see [for me the second time] The Help so my meal was a true one based on Minnie the Maid's instructions plus hints from my cousins in Mobile and Atlanta. I have never used Crisco to cook with before apart from pies and not being a deep fried kind of cook it was a little scary getting this chicken ready. It could have gone either way.Now my cousins may or may not laugh here but I got 2 heavy frying pans and put half a box of Crisco in each..seemed like a lot to me but ah well...I coated the chicken pieces in flour, waited till the fat was real hot frightened that somehow I might start a kitchen fire...meanwhile Beni was reading instructions from various exotic cooks online re how to make fried chicken but I decided on the simple way. When the fat was real hot I placed the pieces in and waited..and waited..and waited not wanting to make Minnie upset with me for burning the chicken. The wait and the several turnovers of the chicken later was worth it!! I am the proud cook of extremely successful, finger, lickin' good fried chicken! It was devoured by one and all from ages 6 to 82! Greg and I have decided that we will have a Southern cooking night once a month as a tribute to my Southern cousins and their wonderful hospitality the past weeks! We [I] will add one or two new items to the table...who wants to come??

However, pride goes before a fall so I better get more and very clear instructions on food items from the cousins so that I remain successful!! greetings from Victoria y'all!!